Questions have been asked about the ommission of the drain opening at the bottom of the engine bilge. The correct answer is that there is not supposed to be one as this bilge is designed to contain any engine fluid that may escape from the engine including antifreeze, engine oil, transmission oil and diesel fuel. If engine fluid is allowed to drain into the main bilge below it will be emptied by the bilge pump overboard and this is not allowed.

It is finally time to replace my stretched main sail.
I am currently looking for a sail maker to provide a suitable cloth for high winds of San Francisco Bay.
It has 4 full battends, 2 reef points with jack lines for each of them. It also includes Dutchman Reefing with a total of 14 buttons with slits.
There are images to view here in C36 Album

Due to local high winds and incredible amount of rain the marina's tall cypress trees had fallen and damaged local power company power lines. This stopped all electricity for the Marina.
The park and the marina was closed and restricted to tenants with limited access.
I was able to enter the marina to run the engine and charge the batteries once a week and empty the bilge of rainwater . After 6 weeks of no power,  the marina was informed that it may be another 6 weeks before power is restored.

Much has been written about heat exchangers, but I was not able to find out the dimensions of the original end pad on a 3" heat exchanger, the "O" ring and the bolt size and pitch as listed on page 53 of the engine manual. I am in the process of making my own gasket from a plumbing rubber 6"X 6" by 1/8" pad. I was able to cut 2  3 1/8" pads from one 6X6 pad. The center hole can be made using a hole punch from Harbour Freight.

I had noticed that the engine vibrated when I purchsed the boat in 2009. I got used to it thinking it was normal. I had noticed that the belt was hitting the engine creating black dust as a result of the engine vibration. It was years later during a long engine sail that I noticed the tachometer would vary quite a bit, I was not sure why that was. After I reached port and tied to the dock as a regular engine checkup I discovered a large piece of metal in the bilge under the engine.

I had noticed that the ST4000+ LCD Display had developed a black area in the center and was hard to see the display. The system worked OK though.
I was able to find a new LCD display on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/usr/mtnsail970?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559 for $ 129.00 Plus Sales Tax and Shipping. It arrived with instructions to replace the LCD Display.
I took on the project and it was easy to replace.
Caliberation is not needed since the computer is not being replaced.

Recently when I pulled the engine stop cable the handle broke.
Even though Catalina Direct listed this cable (Part number Z4550 $ 99.99 + freight) they did not have it in stock and they did not know when they would have it.
After much online search I located another company that makes these cable and they will make one to your specs.

LPG regulator installation.
After much search I located the regulator that I was looking for at go2marine.com, 800 998-9508
The regulator is Dickinson, Low Pressure Regulator part no 78177 for $ 15.69. I also ordered the Tank Fitting part no 318548 for $ 18.10. It included an elbow that I did not use. Instead I baught an elbow from Home Depot for $ 4.85 and teflon tape for $ 2.95.
The installation took about an hour.
The problem was that there was not much room to work in, but it all went together fine.

My tardiness in replacing the fresh water pump of the cooling system - weeping hole dripping with antifreeze - resulted in a 1/4 of a cup of antifreeze in the bilge.
I purchased a new one for about $ 400.00 that included the gasket.
Removing it was not problem. Then I had to carefully scrape off the residue gasket.
To reinstall the new gasket is recommended to be dampened then install the new pump.
I used a syringe to refill the lost antifreeze - about 10 oz.